Methods of Pattern Making

Pattern making is the art of manipulating and shaping a flat piece of fabric to conform to one or more curves of the human figure

Pattern making involves three methods-
· Drafting
· Draping
· Flat paper patternmaking

Drafting: It involves measurements derived from sizing systems or accurate measurements taken on a person, dress or body form. Measurements for chest, waist, hip and so on, and ease allowances are marked on paper and construction lines are drawn to complete the pattern. Drafting is used to create basic, foundation or design patterns.

Draping: It involves the draping of a two dimensional piece of fabric around a form, conforming to its shape, creating a three-dimensional fabric pattern. This muslin is transferred to paper to be used as a final pattern (Armstrong). Ease allowances for movement are added to make the garment comfortable to wear. Advantage of draping is that the designer can see the overall design effect of the finished garment on the body form before the garment piece is cut and sewn. However, it is more expensive and time consuming than flat pattern making.

Flat Pattern Making: It involves the development of a fitted basic pattern with comfort ease to fit a person or body form. A sloper is the starting point for flat pattern designing. It is a simple pattern that fits the body with just enough ease for movement and comfort (Shoben and Ward). Five basic pattern pieces are used for womens clothing. They include a snug-fitting bodice front and bodice back with darts and a basic neckline, a sleeve and a fitted skirt front and back with darts. However, as fashion changes frequently womens styles fluctuate frequently. These basic slopers are then manipulated to create fashions.

Taking body measurements

Bodice measurements:

Bust:Measure around the fullest part of the bust raising the measuring tape slightly to a level just below the shoulder blades at the back.

Waist:Measure snugly around the waist keeping the tape parallel to the floor.

Neck:Measure around the the neck, passing the tape just above the collar bone time front and along the base of the neck at the back.

Shoulder: Measure from the neck joint to the arm joint along the middle of the shoulder (A to B in fig. a)

Front waist length:Measure down from highest point of shoulder to waist line through the fullest part of the bust (A to C fig. a)

Shoulder to bust: Measure down from highest point of shoulder to tip of bust

Distance between bust points:Measure in the horizontal direction, the distance between the two bust points (D to E fig. a)

Back width or across back measurement: Measure across back from armhole to armhole about 3 inches below base of neck (P to Q in fig b)

Back waist length: Measure from the base of neck at the centre back to waist line (R to S in Fig b).

Armscye depth:Measure from base of neck at centre back to a point directly below it and in level with the bottom of the arm where it joins the body. (R to T in fig b).

Sleeve measurements:

Upper arm circumference: Measure around the fullest part of the arm.

Lower arm:For lower arm, measure around the arm at desired level corresponding to lower edge of sleeve.

Elbow circumference:Measure around the arm at elbow.

Wrist: Measure around the wrist.

Sleeve Length: For short sleeve length, measure down from tip of shoulder at top of arm to desired length of sleeve (B to F in a) For elbow length sleeve measure from top arm to elbow point (B to G in a) For full length bend the elbow slightly and measure down from to of arm to back of wrist passing the tape over the elbow point (B to H in a).

Skirt measurements:
Waist: Measure snugly around the waist keeping the tape parallel to the floor.

Hip: Measure around the fullest part of the hip horizontally. (7 to 9 from waist approx.)

Waist to Hip: Measure down from waist at centre back to fullest part of the hip (S to U in fig.b).

Skirt Length: Measure down the centre back from waist to desired length of skirt (S to V in fig. b)

Sewing Machine - Common Problems and Remedies

Little problems with the sewing machine can be very irritating and time consuming. They can happen to even the most experienced seamstress. The next time you have machine troubles, check this list to see if you can determine the cause of the difficulty and correct it. It may save you a service call and save you time as well. If you can’t correct the trouble, it is wise to seek professional help.

To avoid breaking needles:

— Use proper size of needles for thread and fabric to be sewn.

— See that the presser foot or attachment is securely fastened to the bar and that the needle goes through the center of the hole.

— Avoid pulling fabric when sewing. The needle may become bent and strike the back of the needle hole.

— Use a needle that is the correct length. If it is too long it will come in contact with the bobbin case and break. If it is too short stitches cannot interlock.

— Be sure needle is tightly fastened in the needle bar.

Also be sure presser foot is tightly fastened.

— Sew over pins carefully. Be sure they are perpendicular to the seam and keep the heads of pins away from the stitching line.

Cause of stitches looping:

— Looped stitches are usually caused by improper tension. If the loop is on the upper side, it may be corrected by loosening the top tension or by tightening the lower tension. If the loop is on the under side, it is usually best corrected by adjusting the upper tension.

— Be sure that the upper and lower threading is correct and that the needle is of good quality and the correct size for the thread.

— Looping of stitches is sometimes caused by placing the bobbin in the bobbin case the wrong way.

— There may be lint, dirt, or thread between tension discs.

Causes of upper thread breaking:

— Needle is in backwards.

— Machine improperly threaded

— Tension too tight

— Needle bent or having blunt point

— Thread too coarse for size needle

— Burr on needle hole of presser foot (Caused by breaking needle when pulling fabric from machine)

— Needle too long for machine, or not inserted all the way in the needle bar

— Take-up spring bent or broken (Send for adjuster to repair).

— Tension discs worn so that thread works in groove

— Needle too fine for size of thread and fabric to be sewn

— Threads not properly pulled back under presser foot when starting to sew

— Lint or dirt around bobbin case holder

— Irregular sewing speed

Causes of lower thread breaking:

— Improper threading of bobbin in bobbin case

— Tension too tight

— Thread wound unevenly on bobbin in bobbin wound too full

— Spring on bobbin case worn to sharp groove

— Burr on under side of throat plate (sometimes caused by sewing over pins or breaking needle)

— Knot in bobbin thread

— Lint, dirt, or thread under tension spring of bobbin case

Causes of puckered seams:

— Tension is too tight

— Stitch too long for fabric being sewn, especially on fine fabric

— Wrong presser foot used

— Puckered threads across seams are due to a blunt needle or too large a needle.

— Stitch too short for synthetic and easy care fabrics

— With automatic machines, the use of the plate with wide needle hole may cause straight seams to pucker.

— Upper thread and bobbin threads are of a different size and/or type.

— Pressure too heavy for fabric

— Fabric pushed of pulled while stitching

Cause of machine not feeding properly:

— Pressure incorrect for the fabric being sewn

— The feed dog worn smooth. This can be determined by running the finger over the teeth. If they are not sharp, the feed dog should be replaced by a competent adjuster.

— Feed dog clogged with lint

— The stitch regulator may have been turned back so far that the feed is entirely out of action.

— Needle may be bent.

— Spool of thread may jerk and catch if machine is operated too rapidly or at uneven speed.

— Stitch regulator incorrectly adjusted

— Throat plate incorrectly positioned

Cause of machine working heavily:

— If the machine works hard after standing, it may be gummed with oil and in need of a general cleaning.

— The belt may be too tight and hence puts excessive pressure on the bearing.

— When the belt is too loose, it slips on the balance wheel.

— Thread jammed in bobbin case

Cause of skipping stitches:

— Needle not correctly inserted in the needle bar

— Needle too small for the thread used

— Needle too short for the machine

— Blunt or bent needle

— If zipper foot is used, the edge of the foot is too far away from the needle.

— Needle threaded incorrectly

— Needle hole in throat plate too large

— Pressure too light

— Upper tension too tight

— Upper thread and bobbin thread of different size and /or type

Cause of stitch length variation:

— Stitch regulator incorrectly adjusted

— Feed dogs clogged with lint

— Pressure incorrect for fabric

— Tension incorrect for fabric

— Throat plate adjusted incorrectly

— Presser foot loose or not suited for fabric being sewn

Parts of a Sewing Machine

Sewing Machine

1. Spool pin: It is fitted on top of the arm to hold the reel.

2. Thread guide: It holds the thread in position from the spool to the needle.

3. Tension disc: The two concave discs put together with the convex sides facing each other. The thread passes between the two. The tension of the thread is adjusted by a spring and nut which increases or decreases pressure

4. Take up lever: It is a lever fitted to the body of the arm. Its up and down motion feeds the thread to the needle and tightens the loop formed by the shuttle.

5. Needle bar: This is a steel rod to hold the needle at one end with the help of a clamp. Its main function is to give motion to the needle.

6. Bobbin case: This moves into position to catch the top thread and form the stitch as the needle is lowered into the bobbin chamber.

7. Presser foot: It is fixed to the presser bar to hold the cloth firmly in position when lowered.

8. Presser foot lifter: A lever attached to the presser bar for raising and lowering the presser foot.

9. Stitch regulator: This controls the length of the stitch.

10. Bobbin winder: A simple mechanism used for winding thread on the bobbin.

11. Fly Wheel: When this is made to revolve, it works the mechanism of the motion

12. Clutch or Thumb Screw: This is in the center of the fly wheel and it engages and disengages the stitching mechanism.

13. Slide Plate: A rectangular plate, which facilitates the removal of the bobbin case without lifting the machine.

14. Needle Plate or Throat Plate: A semi-circular disc with a hole to allow the needle to pass through it.

15. Feed dog: This consists of a set of teeth fitted below the needle plate. It helps to move the cloth forward while sewing.

16. Face plate: A cover which on removal gives access to the oiling points on the needle bar, presser bar and take-up lever.

17. Spool pin for bobbin winding: Spool of thread is placed on this at the time of bobbin winding.